Days 12 through 14 - Le Thoronet Abbey and the sun-baked Riviera
On our way to the Riviera we had a memorable stop at a Cistercian Abbey. The Thoronet Abbey is one of three Cistercian abbeys in Provence, built beginning in 1160. By 1790 there were only seven elderly monks still living in the abbey, which deteriorated slowly until 1841, when restoration work began. A visit to this abbey is a worthy side excursion off the main highway to the Riviera. It's austere, puritan simplicity made it one of the most spectacular worship sites we have visited. One member of our tour group took our breath away with a Gregorian chant that demonstrated the magnificant acoustics of the bare stone walls of the church .
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Le Thoronet Abbey |
Lunch followed in the picnic grounds across the street from the Abbey. There we enjoyed a Kir and Salade Nicoise and apple tart for dessert.
The chaos of Nice was a bit overwhelming when we first arrived at the Hôtel Suisse, on the Promenade des Anglais. We bid a sad farewell to our bus driver, Hilda, here as she politely ignored the honking horns of irritated drivers while unloading both us and our luggage off the bus! The backdrop of the hotel is magical at night and the view from our room (on the right) was spectacular.
An evening in old town Nice...
Our first evening in Nice, Chris took us on a walking tour of old town Nice, which is the best place to "hang out" while in Nice. We got to experience a couple of special treats while wandering through the narrow streets - gelato from the famous Fenocchio Maître Glacier where you order your gelato by the "boule"; also a local specialty, "socca" - a chickpea crêpe (which is the equivalent of a cecina in Italy).
There are so many places to eat here, but the influence is very Italian. For dinner we ate at LaTapende, where we enjoyed tempura-style zucchini blossoms stuffed with goat cheese, gnocchi with mushroom sauce, and ravioli with pisto (a basil and olive tapenade of sorts).
Nightlife is fun here - but wander with a cautious eye.
There are so many places to eat here, but the influence is very Italian. For dinner we ate at LaTapende, where we enjoyed tempura-style zucchini blossoms stuffed with goat cheese, gnocchi with mushroom sauce, and ravioli with pisto (a basil and olive tapenade of sorts).
Nightlife is fun here - but wander with a cautious eye.
And now, about "le vin"...(it's NOT all about the rosé!)
This region of Provence is perhaps the most famous for the Côtes-de-Provence. Wines from this appellation are crisp, dry rosés made from blends which commonly include grenache and cinsault. It is a delightful wine to drink while basking in the warm sunshine of the Riviera. The Bandol region of Provence is perhaps the best appellation. Both reds and rosés here have a large percentage of mouvédre (must be 50%). You might find strong, earthy, strawberry notes in this wine. Other red wines are produced in the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence where you might find wines with a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cinsult, mouvédre, and grenache. Cassis comes from the Marseille region - a white made from clairette and marsanne - said to pair well with the region's bouillabaisse.
Villefrance-sur-Mer
If I had my druthers, I would stay in this town when visiting the Riviera. From Villefrance you can easily hop a bus or train and pay a visit to Monaco or Nice. The houses built on the hillside here reminded us of Italy. The beaches are more family-friendly and the smaller beach pebbles kinder on the feet. The promenade is lined with restaurants where you can grab a table and indulge in a crisp rosé while soaking up the sunshine. There is a delightful seaside walkway that begins here. Take it as far as you want and catch a local bus back!
Villa Ephrussi de RothschildA visit to the Villa would not be on the top of our list of things to do, but it was fun to imagine what life would be like living in that gorgeous pink villa with the sweeping views of the Mediterranean. The well-maintained gardens were the highlight of this visit for us!
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Our farewell dinner...
Not a Traveler's tip...but ABOUT the Travelers...
The last night of the tour is always the hardest, when you have to say goodbye to 22 new friends you have made in the last fourteen days. They were from Canada, Minnesota, Kansas, Massachusetts, Virginia, Iowa, Kentucky, Washington, Ohio, New York and New Jersey. They are teachers, doctors, nurses, bagpipers, pipe organ builders, accountants, engineers, electricians, and poets. We had little in common when we met but the love of travel and the interest in learning about the culture. In the end, these strangers became our "family" for a time - and it was good!!!